Jukut Paku

Southwest of Ubud, on the western bank of the Wos (also called Oos) River, lies a rock-cut miniature candi (pronounced: chahn-dee) flanked by two hermits’ caves. The niche enclosing the candi is unusually deep compared with the relatively small size of the relief itself. Its form resembles the Shaivist Hindu temples of Central Java from that era and is particularly similar in structure to the rock-cut temples of the Pakerisan River valley, most closely the Tenth Shrine of Pura Gunung Kawi and, in its form, Candi Tebing Kerobokan. It is possibly one of the most ancient monuments in Bali, probably dating as early as the 11ᵗʰ century, contemporaneous with the larger candis at Gunung Kawi.

As with all Balinese candis, the rock-cut miniature temple likely served as a monument—an empty tomb of a departed ruler whose name is now lost. The caves on the sides were likely occupied by hermit caretakers, who tended the site, cleared vegetation, placed offerings, and performed rituals. Carved from living rock, the monument is partly sheltered from the elements, but any ornamentation it may once have had has vanished over the past ten centuries. Unlike some other candis, such as those at Gunung Kawi, no inscriptions survive here. The candi was most probably not a tomb: the ruler’s ashes were likely scattered elsewhere.

Photos and text © 2025 Alida Szabo.