Pura Dalem Balingkang stands on the northwest side of Bali’s Batur caldera, in the quiet village of Pinggan on a broad inner plateau, giving it a sense of seclusion and spaciousness. Occupying 130 by 130 meters, the temple complex was once the site of a royal palace in the 12ᵗʰ century and remains significant today both for its size and unique history.

The temple’s story revolves around King Sri Jaya Pangus, who ruled Bali from 1178–1181 CE, and his marriage to Kang Cing Wie, a Chinese woman often remembered as a princess. Their union introduced new customs to Bali, notably the use of Chinese kepeng coins (also called pis bolong) which are still used today in ritual offerings, as well as merging some Buddhist influence into Balinese Hinduism.

Visitors reach the temple by crossing a ravine and walking up the stairs through a group of trees into the open courtyards. There are two candi bentars (split gates) leading from the first spacious courtyard with bale pavilions to the inner courtyard (jeroan). Rows of frangipani trees mark the way to several nine-tiered meru towers and the padmasana tower, towards the green caldera rim.

A side sanctuary at the northeast corner of the first courtyard honors Kang Cing Wie, known locally as Putri Ayu Subandar, today still honored as the goddess of prosperity. The Gedong Linggih Ratu Ayu Mas Subandar shrine, adorned with red and yellow colors like Buddhist temples, features a prominent giant kepeng coin as a symbol of prosperity. Rituals here blend Hindu and Buddhist-Chinese elements, with offerings sometimes performed standing (“Chinese” style) and sometimes kneeling (Balinese Hindu style), reflecting active syncretism.

Pura Dalem Balingkang is also important to a banua network of Bali Aga (“original Balinese”) villages, with less influence than Pura Puncak Penulisan.

King Sri Jaya Pangus, ruler of Bali, shocked his court and kingdom when he fell deeply in love with Kang Ching Wie, the daughter of a Chinese trader—an outsider with no noble blood. Defying custom and lineage expectations, he elevated her to the rank of queen, bestowing upon her the royal title Sri Mahardatta. This bold act of love and defiance stirred unrest in the royal court, where many advisors and priests viewed the union as an insult to tradition and a threat to the sanctity of the kingdom.

The King’s chief priest, Bhagawan Siwagandu was among the dissenters. He refused to sanctify the marriage, declaring it a violation of royal precedent. Furious at this challenge, the King banished Siwagandu to a remote and lowly region near the lake what is now known as Songan village—a place considered unworthy for someone of such spiritual stature at that time.

The exile of a holy man so revered disturbed the natural and spiritual balance. Mount Batur, the sacred volcano, is said to have trembled with rage at the injustice. Flames and floods alternated from its core, as if nature itself was expressing outrage.