— Neighboring Lakeshore Temples in Songan —

The tallest, eleven-tiered meru is dedicated to Dewi Danu, the goddess of the lake.

Meaning of its name: “Head of Lake Batur”

Also called: PURA HULUNDANU SONGAN, PURA ULUN DANU BANGLI

Location: At the northwestern corner of Batur Lake.

Map: Songan, Kintamani, Bangli, Bali, Indonesia

Dates back to: 16ᵗʰ or 17ᵗʰ century, perhaps earlier

Main building: An 11-tiered meru for the lake-goddess Dewi Danu.

Region: Mount Batur

Theme: Water Temples

Requirements for visit: Try to seek permission before entering, wearing a sarong. Don’t enter the innermost courtyard.

Pura Hulundanu Batur

Visitors from Gianyar in the middle coutyard, facing the eleven-tiered meru of Dewi Danu

The road from Pura Jati along the lakeshore passes Toyabungkah, known for its volcanic hot springs, and ends at the northern tip of the lake where the waters meet the crater rim. Here, a temple stands built into the green caldera wall, distinct from the larger Pura Ulun Danu Batur, which was relocated to the southern crater rim a century ago.

This temple is maintained by the villagers of Songan, whose community life centers on its stewardship. The anniversary of Pura Ulun Danu is celebrated on the fourth full moon of the Balinese calendar (usually in September or October), while every ten years the temple hosts the grand Panca Wali Krama ceremony.

The split gate on the left, seen from under the trees

*Pemangku* (priest) giving holy water to a devotee

One of the smaller merus of the inner courtyard

Rival Claims over Dewi Danu

During the twentieth century, persistent rivalry developed between this temple and Pura Ulun Danu Batur, the latter recognized as the principal sanctuary of Dewi Danu and a major Pura Kahyangan Jagat. As Pura Ulun Danu Batur (up on the caldera rim) began claiming authority over the lake’s headwaters—traditionally managed by Songan—many irrigation societies (subak) shifted their allegiance, reducing Songan’s ritual patronage and offerings. Scholarly sources note that disputes over ritual control and resource allocation remain unresolved.

Rice farmers from the subaks continue to support the temple financially and attend its major ceremonies, illustrating the deep link between agricultural practices, religious life, and communal obligations in Balinese society.

Temple Layout

Following typical Balinese design, the temple complex features three courtyards: outer, middle, and inner, in this temple arranged left to right. The narrow inner sanctuary, set against an overgrown cliff, contains seven meru shrines that increase in height from south to north, with an eleven-tiered shrine dedicated to Dewi Danu at the northern end. The middle court hosts ritual pavilions such as Padmasana, Paruman Alit, Bale Peselang, and Gedong Dalem. The spacious outer courtyard is designed for gatherings and incorporates a drum tower (bale kulkul) at the southwest and two large shade trees at the northwest corner.

Offerings from *subak*s: chicken alive, woven into leaves

Head of the turtle holding the *padmasana*

Two trees grown together in the outermost courtyard

Padmasana throne, resting on a turtle in the middle courtyard

Center gate between the outer and the middle courtyard

Pura Tirta Hulundanu

After praying at Pura Hulundanu Batur, visitors proceed to this neighboring temple dedicated to holy water (tirta). Built just 50 meters away, directly on the lake, it occupies a strikingly beautiful setting. Though modest in size, it is of great importance as the source of holy water drawn from Lake Batur and carried by Balinese people to many parts of the island. Bathing in the lake is forbidden, and even touching the water—especially with the feet—is considered a serious violation of its sanctity. Visitors wishing to enter should wear a sarong and respectfully ask for permission.

The water of lake Batur is seen as inherently sacred

Bibliography

Haer, Debbie Guthrie, Morillot, Julliet and Toh, Irene Bali, a Traveller’s Companion. Singapore: Didier Millet, 2007

Lansing, J. Stephen. Perfect Order: Recognizing Complexity in Bali. Princeton and Oxford: Princeton University Press, 2006.

Oriental Architecture Pura Ulun Danu Batur Songan, https://www.orientalarchitecture.com/sid/1707/indonesia/bangli-regency-bali/pura-ulun-danu-batur-songan

Reuter, Thomas A. Custodians of the Sacred Mountains: The Ritual Domains of Highland Bali. Hawaii: University of Hawaii Press, 2022.

Pura Hulundanu Batur in Songan. Turning right, you can reach Pura Tirta Hulundanu after a few minutes’ walk.

Nearby temples

It is possible to reach Pura Balingkang from Songan, but only by motorbike. The road is steep and winding, leading up to a small plateau or the inner caldera rim and Pinggan village, on the northern side of Mount Batur. Be prepared for rapidly changing weather—rain and fog can appear several times a day—but the spectacular views more than make up for it.

You have probably reached the crater lake by descending from Penelokan village on the outer caldera. Along the way, you may have passed Pura Jati, with its lakeside temple Pura Segara Ulundanu, built on the water. On the far less visited side of the lake lies Trunyan, with its peculiar temple Pura Pancering Jagat.

To visit the other temples in the Batur region, you will need to leave the crater and drive back up to the caldera rim. The Geological Museum in Penelokan gives you a good summary of the regions geology and culture.

The small Pura Tirta Hulundanu on the left, a statue of Dewi Danu in the middle and the Bali Aga village of Trunyan at the opposite shore of the lake

Previous temple:

Pura Balingkang

Next temple:

Pura Jati