Candi Tebing Kerobokan

Overgrown by Nature

Meaning: ‘Kerobokan cliff temple’

Also called: CANDI TEBING KROBOKAN

Location: A few kilometers north of Pejeng, at the confluence of Pakerisan River and Kerobokan River

Map: Cemadik, Pejeng Kangin, Tampaksiring, Gianyar, Bali, Indonesia

Dates back to: 12ᵗʰ century

Main features: A rock-cut candi form and carved meditation caves

Region: Pejeng

Theme: The Rock Temples of Central Bali

Requirements for visit: none

Accessibility: About 300 uneven steps lead down to the cliff temple

South of Tampaksiring, but still within the Pakerisan River valley—like Pura Tirta Empul, Pura Mengening, and Pura Gunung Kawi—there are several other ancient rock-cut temples: Candi Tebing Kerobokan, Goa Garba, and Candi Tebing Tegallinggah.

You need to cross the Pakerisan River to reach the temple, which stands west of the confluence

Location and landscape setting

Candi Tebing Kerobokan is a small yet significant rock-cut cliff temple (candi tebing). It stands at the campuhan, the confluence of the Kerobokan River and the Pakerisan River. The candi is carved directly into the very steep northern cliff of the riverbank, embedded in a humid, shaded environment. Dense vegetation, moss, and constant moisture characterize the site, softening architectural contours while simultaneously accelerating stone weathering. The monument’s placement—overlooking flowing water at a river confluence—aligns it closely with Balinese concepts of purification, and spiritual transition.

The sign showing the Cultural Heritage Site Candi Tebing Kerobokan on Jl. Raya Pejeng Kangin

Historical context

Based on stylistic and typological analysis, scholars generally date Candi Tebing Kerobokan to around the 12ᵗʰ century CE, making it slightly younger than Gunung Kawi, which is associated with the 11ᵗʰ-century Warmadewa period.

The monument reflects the syncretic Hindu–Buddhist religious culture of early Bali, particularly the ascetic and Shaivite traditions that flourished in central Bali during this period. Its form and placement indicate continuity with earlier cliff sanctuaries, while also showing local variation and adaptation.

Pakerisan river
Steps to the valley
Bringing water from the spring

Architectural features, function and meaning

The complex consists of one main cliff-carved candi accompanied by at least three ascetic or hermitage caves carved into the same riverbank sector. Unlike Gunung Kawi—where shrines and caves are more clearly separated spatial units—at Kerobokan the candi is carved between or among the hermitage niches, forming a more integrated architectural ensemble. In this it is similar to the Tenth Shrine of Gunung Kawi and to Jukut Paku

The main shrine is hewn as a tower-like structure, articulated into a base (kaki), body (tubuh), and roof (atap). While closely related in form to Gunung Kawi and Candi Tebing Tegallinggah, the Kerobokan shrine is slimmer and approximately one meter shorter. The roof is proportionally broader than those at Gunung Kawi.

Within the body of the candi is a cavity interpreted as a peripih chamber, used to place ritual deposits during consecration. Above this cavity are reliefs of niches with heavily eroded kala heads, originally functioning as guardian motifs at architectural thresholds. At the summit of the shrine sits a lingga–yoni, clearly indicating a Shaivite orientation and symbolizing cosmic union, and fertility.

Can you spot the overgrown carved caves and the temple form? That is all that can be seen today—along with the serene landscape.

Local narratives attribute the carving of the temple to a powerful figure working miraculously with fingernails, a motif common in Balinese oral tradition and sometimes associated—though anachronistically—with legendary figures such as Kebo Iwa.  Nearby features, including a small cave and a large “pillow-like” stone said to be a royal resting place, reinforce local perceptions of the site as a retreat for high-status individuals, not merely a village shrine.

The combination of ascetic caves, river confluence, and lingga-yoni crown suggests intertwined practices of purification, meditation, and deity or ancestor veneration within the broader Pakerisan ritual landscape.

Due to the humid microclimate of the valley much of the structure is now visibly worn, and parts may already have collapsed. Heritage observers stress the urgency of ongoing conservation measures, including vegetation control, rock stabilization, and carefully managed access, to preserve both the physical integrity and interpretive legibility of this modest yet culturally important monument. 

Overview of selected candi tebing in the Pakerisan Region

Here is a comparative table mapping Candi Tebing Kerobokan against other major candi tebing in the Pakerisan valley and beyond (in the case of Candi Tebing Tambahan). You can get an overview about the landscape, form, layout, dating, and ritual function of these sites.


SiteLocation and LandscapeApprox. DateScale and ProportionsLayout: Candi vs. Hermitage CavesKey Architectural FeaturesReligious Orientation and Function
Candi Gunung KawiSteep cliffs along the Pakerisan River, Tampaksiring11th c. CE (Warmadewa period)Monumental, tall and massiveShrines and hermitage caves clearly separated, except at the Tenth ShrineMultiple large rock-cut shrines; inscriptionsRoyal monument; ancestor veneration; Shaivite with syncretic elements
Candi Tebing KerobokanConfluence of Pakerisan & Kerobokan rivers, Pejeng Kangin; overgrown cliff12th c. CESmaller, slimmer; ~1 m shorter than Gunung KawiCandi carved between hermitage caves (integrated layout)Monolithic cliff-carved shrine; eroded kala heads; roof with lingga–yoniShaivite asceticism; meditation, purification
Candi Tebing TegallinggahCliff at Pakerisan River11th–12th c. CE (unfinished)Intended monumental scale, but incomplete Separation of elementsStaircases and carved elements; evidence of abandoned constructionLikely similar function to Gunung Kawi
Candi Tebing TambahanPakerisan watershed, more secluded river setting11th–12th c. CESmaller scaleIntegrated shrine–cave relationshipSimpler cliff carvings; minimal ornamentationHermitage-oriented ritual use; ascetic practices
Candi Tebing KalebutanPetanu riverbank11th–12th c. CESmaller scale, slimmer shapeIntegrated shrine–cave relationshipLess elaborate candi form; strong cave emphasisMeditation, retreat, localized ritual practice

Visiting

Today, Candi Tebing Kerobokan is little visited and often described as a “hidden” site, partly due to overgrown access paths and minimal infrastructure.

After going down about 200 steps, the stairway forks. Turning right leads to the temple, while continuing straight brings you to a water spring. At the bottom of the stairs by the river, the temple relief can be seen on the opposite side of the Pakerisan River, to the left, carved into the eastern rock face, facing south. If you wish to get closer, you need to cross the river.

Entry is generally free, and the atmosphere remains quiet and natural, offering a different experience from Bali’s more frequented temple attractions. 

Kerobokan River joins Pakerisan River about 20 meters east of the temple site

Bibliography

Artanegara, Agung et al. Tinggalan arkeologi di daerah aliran sungai Pakerisan dan Petanu. Balai Pelestarian Cagar Budaya Bali, 2021.

Kempers, A. J. Bernet Monumental Bali. Singapore: Periplus Editions, 1991.

Ramelan, Wiwin Djuwita Sudjana (Ed.) Candi Indonesia. Seri Sumatera, Kalimantan, Bali, Sumbawa. Jakarta: Direktorat Pelestarian Cagar Budaya dan Permuseuman, 2014.

Nearby Temples

Following the Pakerisan River northwards brings you to Tampaksiring, with its concentration of historic temples. Driving about ten minutes to the south leads to Goa Garba, another rock-cut site of striking natural beauty and historical and spiritual significance. Further south lies Pejeng village, home to three and a half major historical temples: Pura Penataran Sasih, Pura Pusering Jagat, and Pura Kebo Edan with Pura Arjuna Mentapa at its side. Beyond Pejeng begins the East Central Bali temple region, with many more remarkable historic puras.

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Photos and text © 2025 Alida Szabo.